Cholesterols are an essential component of biomembranes and the epidermal barrier layer (skin barrier). Together with ceramides and free fatty acids, they form the largest proportion of barrier lipids. Cholesterols give the barrier layer elasticity and stability at the same time. They are thus a fundamental prerequisite for the resistant and firm structure of the skin barrier1. A plant-based alternative for cholesterols are phytosterols. They are contained in particular in native oils and butters, such as avocado oil or shea butter.
There are factors which negatively influence the function of the epidermal barrier and disturb the structure and cross-linking of the skin barrier lipids. In addition to age-related skin changes, climate and weather conditions, hygiene and cosmetic behavior and individual occupational stress on the skin are particularly worthy of mention as triggers.
These influencing factors can cause "gaps" in the lipid protective mantle, which massively reduces the function of the skin barrier. Consequences of this disturbance are: Loss of moisture and thus dry to very dry and flaky skin, skin irritations, increased sensitivity and reduced resistance, slowed skin regeneration, feelings of tension and itching.
The negative skin changes described can be counteracted by proper cleansing and care of the skin, for example by cosmetic application of phytosterols, the plant-based alternative to the cholesterol described above. Cosmetically applied phytosterols are able to regenerate and stabilize the skin's unbalanced barrier function.
Various scientific studies have shown that phytosterols used in cosmetics have an anti-inflammatory effect, are moisturizing, minimize skin roughness and thus increase the elasticity and resistance of the skin. Also of interest in this context are the proven positive effects of a phytosterol-containing formulation on the function and regeneration of the damaged and irritated skin barrier².
In addition, phytosterols have been shown to counteract UV-induced activation of certain enzymes involved in photoaging and thus to delay the premature degradation of collagen in the dermis. Recent results show that phytosterols also have a positive effect on collagen synthesis after UV irradiation³. Thus, plant sterols have a preventive effect on light-induced skin aging symptoms, in the sense of anti-aging.
Summarized, phytosterols are excellent for cosmetic use in mature, dry and environmentally stressed skin to increase moisture, stabilize the barrier and minimize the signs of photoaging.
